Africa has been on my mind ever since I was little. With Carmen my younger sister, I professed that we would go together as missionary to save the world. Well, time has changed, but Africa has remained for me a magnet that pulled me in a second time. The adventure fluctuated between being informative to utter excitement.
On the first day of a safari in Chobe National Park, in Botswana, we saw twelve lionesses kill three Cape Buffalos. Along with the animals, we found our hearts pumping faster as the adrenaline hormone instantly spread through our bodies. Instantly alert in the safety of our vehicle, we followed the pride as it strategically executed their kills. The last buffalo, weak or old, will be the victim. For hours the lionesses crouched, watching, quietly spying on the herd of 20 -30 buffalos. They are hungry. It has been several days without a meal. When close enough, the first lioness jumps on the slowest one. A second one follows and a third, digging their powerful claws into the buffalo’s behind, sides and neck. The buffalo is overpowered and falls. He is hurt. The other buffaloes are coming for the rescue. The large male, with his solid, threatening horns and bony forehead is charging the lions. The lions retreat but it is too late for the mortally wounded buffalo. The herd circles the animal who is no longer able to stand. Realizing that there is no hope, the herd leaves quietly and two lions return to finish the kill. It is a slow, cruel process. One lion is at the neck bleeding this prey to an excruciating death. Watching from afar and thinking the buffalo dead, its hind leg starts moving. The lioness renews her attack. She bites the neck, a second one clamp down to the rear end until, no more movement is observed.
The rest of the pride is watching the herd again. Again, they sprint toward the slowest one. This one is old, not running as fast. This time the bull turns around and charges the lions. His hard forehead hits one lioness’ right foreleg. She limps behind on three legs, no longer able to attack. The nine remaining lions resume their attack. They are patient and wait for just the right time. Now they go. The same tactic. Attack the last one. Bigger this time. But old and unable to run away. One lioness jumps on the buffalo’s behind, then two, three, four. Again, and again their powerful claws dig in and overpower the poor victim.
The pride is still going strong, however decreasing in number. The experienced lioness does not lose any chances. This is a feast. She is also as prudent as in Kenney Rodgers song ‘The Gambler’. She knows when to walk away, knows when to run. She never counts her kills while sitting at the table, there’ll be time enough for counting when the day is done. And there she goes again. Indefatigable. Charging a third buffalo. Again succeeding.
This is the first morning on safari. Worth getting up at 5:30 AM to explore the park. We go back to the camp for lunch, excited about what we saw. Hunger is a strong motivator and killing is nature’s way of survival. With several kills, the pride will gorge itself and be satisfied for a few days.
In the afternoon, we go back in our vehicle spying on the pride. We found them lying on their sides with their abdomen bulging out; they are sleeping. One is on her back with her four paws in the air looking pregnant. They gorge themselves, rest, and eat again until there is nothing left.
It is impossible to beat that day. Even the guides had never seen such action. Lions usually kill at night. To witness the planning, co-ordination, and execution of survival in the wild was thrilling. The rest of
the trip seemed dull at first, in comparison. However, there is more to Africa than her lions and buffalos. It is a continent of contrast. Wealth and extreme poverty. Lush Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and dryness of the bushes. Women may walk miles every day from their village to fetch dirty water from the riverbed and carry it home on their heads. In Zimbabwe, the children go to school without the luxuries of electricity and running water. Girls don’t go to school when the have their period because they do not have sanitary pads.
In South Africa, 25% of South Africa’s of the population of 60 million live in the townships of tin shacks with one toilet for about each 5 families. South Africa is 82% Black, 9% Colored and 9% White and Asian. The Whites live in well built houses with thick fences and security doors. Covid hurt the economy badly. A country where tourism is key. Many lost their jobs. The corrupt government after Nelson Mandel’s presidency did not take care of infrastructure which even today has planned, daily black outs of electricity. Staying at boutique hotels does not make any difference. For 2 hours a day or more, no electricity.
South Africa is also the home of the beautiful Table Mountain in Cape Town. The magnificent scenery along the coast to the south westernmost point, Cape of Good Hope. The ostrich farms. The wineries. And most of all the gratitude in people’s faces for seeing tourists again.
This trip is more than one story. It is dozens of stories. Each with their own point of interest. It brings this essay to its conclusion and opens the door to new adventures.
EK, with love 